Where

Trattoria da Fiore: In Calle delle Botteghe, near Campo Santo Stefano. It is a family run bacaro and restaurant serving local recipes. The restaurant is very nice and their products very fresh, and I like to come here to enjoy an ombra with some cichetti. Their sarde in saor with white polenta are excellent. Try also their baccalà mantecato served on bread and the moeche (on the menu just for few weeks in spring and early winter).

Al Bottegon o Cantinone Già Schiavi: In Fondamenta Nani, just after Ponte di San Trovaso. They  offer a wide variety of cicchetti all at about 1€ each. Just one suggestion: try them all. You can enjoy your cichetti and ombre outside, on the Fondamenta and adjacent bridge. This is the only place in Venice that sells fragolino bianco – a delicious white strawberry digestivo

vedovaOsteria Alla Vedova: It is a bacaro and also a restaurant, managed by the same family for more than a  century. I booked a table here just a couple of times and it was very good, especially the spaghetti alle vongole and the schie con la polenta (small boiled shrimps with garlic oil served with white polenta), but I usually come here for their polpette (meatballs), probably the best in Venice. It’s in Ramo Ca’ Doro, a side calle of Strada Nuova.

Osteria Al Portego: in Corte Specchiera, out of Calle della Malvasia. I love their baccalà alla vicentina and alportego_smalltheir seppie col nero. There are just few tables inside to have lunch or dinner, so best to book ahead. The menu is written (in Italian) on a blackboard everyday (if you need a translation, the staff will help). I prefer stand around the counter and outside. Cheap, tasty, traditional food. Cash only,

Bacareto Da Lele: in Fondamenta dei Tolentini, near Piazzale Roma. Bacareto means little bacaro because this is a very small place and inside there is only a counter so people sit on the steps in the small campo or just stand and eat. They offer a good selection of (very cheap) panini, formaggi and salumi. Remember, the chichetto always goes with an ombra (or two).

frito_inn

Frito-Inn: in Campo S. Leonardo, a side campo of Rio Terà San Leonardo. It’s a street food stall and their fried fish is really tasty, crispy and fresh. Try the mixed cartoccio (paper cornet) with shrimps, calamari, sardines and vegetables. Very nice their mozzarelle in carrozza, fried baccalà and fried mozzarella with baccalà. Barbara, the owner, is very friendly. You can also order an ombra and sit at one of the little tables in the campo. Cartocci from about 5€, ombra 1€.

Cantina Do Spade: after Sottoportego De Le Do Spade, a side calle of Calle de l’Anzolo, not far from Rialto Bridge (a little hard to find). It is 600 years old bacaro and restaurant, one of the oldest in Venice. Very nice atmosphere, and tasty, traditional, fresh food. You can try the fegato alla veneziana (Venetian style liver with sweet onion and polenta). I don’t like liver, but my friends say their fegato is really good. Also their spaghetti al nero and the seafood pasta are very nice. Reasonable prices

Cantina Do Mori: entrances on Calle Galiazza and Calle Do Mori, just off the Rialto Mercato Vaporetto. This is the oldest bacaro in Venice, founded in 1462, and here you’ll find the authentic Venetian atmosphere of the past. No tables inside but a great selection of wines and cicchetti.

Osteria Al Ponte ‘La patatina’: bacaro and restaurant located on a bridge near Campo San Polo. My dad used to go there several years ago and in his opinion this place has not lapatatinasmallchanged since then. Potatoes are not a typical Venetian dish but if this place is called ‘La patatina’ there is a reason … so try them. I like their pasta e fagioli (a worm and creamy soup with pasta and beans), nice fish and fried cichetti, friendly atmosphere.

Vineria All’Amarone: situated in a very narrow calle in Campo San Silvestro, near Campo San Polo. They offer a fine selection of local wines, a good selection of cicchetti and a sophisticated selection of cold cuts and cheeses. If you have never enjoyed a dinner consisting only of wine and cheese this is the right place to try. Very good wines, lots of delicious cheeses, and many other traditional dishes to try. Great value for money, beautifully cooked food, very friendly and helpful staff, warmly environment, it is definitely one to visit.

All’Arco: Situated in a hidden street not far from Rialto Fish Market, this is a great place for chicchetti at a resonable price. Try the sarde in saor, the baccalà mantecato and alla vicentina, the bovoeti and folpetti (marinated snails and baby octopus), the frito misto (a mix of fried fish), the crostini, the tramezzini and their hot panini with mortadella, senape e salsiccia, or prosciutto. They also offer a good selection of local wines. You can eat standing or there are a few small tables and chairs outside. The staff is warm and friendly, great atmosphere.

La Cantina: it is a rare example of good place in a busy tourist street, Strada Nuova. Nice place where you can pick something before dinner. This is not the cheapest bacaro but it is located in a very touristic street and the other restaurants here are usually expensive and not so good. On the bar there is a tray of oysters on ice (€9 for six) and several fresh fish cichetti. Raw fish is a speciality. Staff is very knowledgable and passionate about wine and they offer about 30 wines available by the glass (from € 3.50 per glass). They also have a good craft beer called Morgana.

Trattoria dai Tosi: an excellent family run place in Calle Secco Marina, 5 min. walk from the Giardini vaporetto stop, in the Sestiere of Castello.They prepare good pizza (the pizza oven is available only at dinner time) and some typical Venetian pastas decently priced. The menu is limited, but this is a good sign because it means that what they do they do well. It is better to make a reservation because local people usually come here and the restaurant is not very big. Sometimes the restaurant only serves pasta, sometimes only pizzas, but they only serve fresh and local food. Wine and drinks are also good, friendly and helpful staff.

Vini da Gigio: in Fondamenta San Felice, a side street of Strada Nuova. It is a small, crowded restaurant, so better to book ahead. Delicious tagliolini alla granceola (Maja squinado -the European spiny spider crab), crispy and tasty fried fish appetizer, lovely chestnut tagliolini with duck ragù, and fish soup. Delicious dessert and nice range of dessert wines to choose from too. Reasonable prices (not so cheap, but good value for money).

La Bottega ai Promessi Sposi: charming bacaro and little restaurant in Calle dell’Oca near Campo Santi Apostoli, always packed with locals drinking and eating cichetti outside in the calle. I like their sarde in saor and the anchovies. If you want to have dinner, better make a reservation in advance. They prepare very nice spaghetti al nero, deliciuos orecchiette with tuna and tomato and excellent bucatini with sardine ragù. Friendly staff, good service.

mascaretaMascareta, in Calle Lunga Santa Maria Formosa. A great place with delicious food, even better choice of wine and open surprisingly late for a city that is normally asleep by midnight (usually until 2am). In addition to the traditional bar area, there is a charming back room where Mauro, the owner, and his staff will serve you delicious plates of salami and cheese and introduce you to the wines of the Veneto. After dinner try their home made tiramisù

Bacaro Risorto: in Campo San Provolo, near Campo San Zaccaria. This is a very small bacaro, inside there is space for just a dozen people. The have a large selection of wine and also beer. Lovely cicchetti, try the fried baccala, the meatballs with cheese, the crostini with gorgonzola and walnuts and the fiori di zucca (deep fried breaded courgette flowers). The owner is extremely friendly. They don’t stay open very late, but is a great place for a pre dinner or pre lunch stop.

One thought on “Where

  1. This is an excellent guide. I probably have tried many of these places, but I don’t remember but a few. In my opinion Al Bottegon (name on the sign above the restaurant) also known as Cantine dl Vino gia Schiave (sign on the door), is a Venetian treasure for perhaps the best chicchetti. It’s worth walking there from almost anywhere, and I would never pass near it without stopping by. It seems the old proprietor must have passed, but his sons and wife have kept it going very well. Bacaro Risorto I go to every day when I am in Venice (I rent an apartment there for about a third of the year, in Castello). I don’t think the food is so good, but the atmosphere is very lively, so it’s a nice place to stop at night. The only problem is, there are different bartenders on any given night. I speak italian, order in italian, but do not live in Italy except for a few months per year, and perhaps they think that I am purely a tourist. On several occasions I have handed over a 10 or 20 euro note and heard the head bartender speak in dialect, telling the one taking care of me, “Just give him change for a five,” hoping I wouldn’t notice. I’d always call them out on it, and they’d promptly give me the rest of my change. This has happened repeatedly. So, it’s a good place to hang out, but count your change at Bacaro Risorto.

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