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I first met Venice when I was a child and we immediately felt in love. When you are a little kid you just love her because you can feed pigeons in Piazza San Marco, play in narrow calli and massive churches, hide behind an altar without knowing the immense artistic importance of the painting on it, run everywhere without caring about cars and traffic, ask an ice-crem and say ‘papi lo passa a pagare dopo (dad will pay you later)’.

Growing up I stated discovering the individuality of Venice as city made of beauty, her glorious past, unchanged life, unchangeable spirit and I decided I wanted to dedicate my time and my to her. So I started to study her history, art and traditions and to spend as much time as possible with her. The discovery of Venice is something you can’t achieve in a life time  so I’m continuing my Venice journey from my new home in London.

In the meantime I want to share what I know and everything new I will learn about Venice with anyone wishing to read.

The itineraries have been designed to let you discover Venice in few days. Of course an entire life would not be enough to discover all the places of this magic city, but an entire life journey is a privilege of few.  So in the next pages you’ll find things about the places I love most, the paintings I care more about and some of the stories which are more significant  to me. I hope it will help you to make your trip unforgettable because Venice is amazing, but not easy.

 

5 thoughts on “Home

  1. Bon gio Cicconettirno, we are staying in Venice Castello near Giardini June 13 14. Would you recommend any family type restaurants close by and activities with two teenagers? Grazie, Kelly

    • Hi! So in the Castello area, near the Giardini, I reccomend you to go to Vecia Gina, a busy local restaurant and pizzeria in Via IV Novembre 54, close to the Sant Elena vaporetto stop (+39 041 5285733). The staff is very friendly, the seating area is lined with pictures of old Venice, the pizza is very nice, as their home made polenta and the baccalà mantecato. Reasonable prices.
      In the same area there is Trattoria dai Tosi, an excellent family run place in Calle Secco Marina, 5 min. walk from the Giardini vaporetto stop (+39 041 523 7016). They prepare good pizza (the pizza oven is available only at dinner time) and some typical Venetian pastas decently priced. The menu is limited, but this is a good sign because it means that what they do they do well. It is better to make a reservation because local people usually come here and the restaurant is not very big. Sometimes the restaurant only serves pasta, sometimes only pizzas, but they only serve fresh and local food. Wine and drinks are also good, friendly and helpful staff.
      In any case, remember that Venice is a small city and you can easily reach any place walking or by vaporetto.
      Now, concerning the activities for teenagers, a few years ago I took my cousin (who was sixteen years old) to see the workshop of a master glassmaker and she really liked it. We went to Vianello Mauro workshop, Calle dei Morti 2251, Santa Croce. The workshop is open from 10.30 am to 6 pm, Monday to Saturday. Closed on Sundays and national holiday. To see Mario working you have to call him at least two weeks in advance (+39 041 5201802) or contact him by e-mail (mv@glasshandmade.it ). The performance lasts about 30 minutes, the cost is €20 per person, to a maximum of 5 people. For children up to 10 it’s free. If you buy something the €20 will be deducted from your purchase (no pressure to purchase at all). Mauro is an extremely talented glass artisan, he speaks great English and very friendly as well, I think it could be a great experience.
      To climb St. Mark’s bell tower (only by elevator) is a great experience for adults, teenagers and children. The ticket costs 8€ (4€ children), opening times in June: from 9.00am to 7.00 pm. It is always very crowded especially during the weekends then you should go early in the morning to avoid waiting too much. The view from the top of the bell tower is beautiful although I prefer the view that you can get from the bell tower of San Giorgio Maggiore. It located on San Giorgio Maggiore Island, San Giorgio Vaporetto stop, line 2 (about 5 minutes from San Zaccaria). Opening time: 9.30am-12.30pm/14.30pm-18pm, ticket 5€. It is less known then St. Mark bell tower so less crowded, and from here you can have scenic view of all Venice, including St. Mark’s Square. It’s amazing, breathtaking.
      Near Campo Santa Maria Formosa there is the ‘Libreria Acqua Alta’ (open everyday 9am-8pm). I think it the most beautiful library in the world. There are books and magazines everywhere and in one room there is a gondola stacked with books. Other books are in smaller boats, canoes and also in a bathtub. On the back is a little courtyard facing the canal with a table and some chairs where you can relax and read something, maybe together with the owner’s cats. Recently they built there a stair made of books that you can climb to enjoy the view. I think it could be funny for two teenagers.
      Another interesting activity is the Voga lesson. A group of local vogatori offers the opportunity to try the voga alla veneta (the stand-up rowing style). They offer 90-minute private rowing lesson conducted English, French, German, and Italian (€40 per person- €80 minimum). It is a magical and funny experience. You can learn a lot about these very special boats and canals, and also saw Venice from an entirely different perspective (and it is cheaper then a gondola ride!). Booking required, info on rowvenice.org
      I hope it helps, buon viaggio!

  2. If you don’t mind the high prices, in Castello right off the San Zaccaria vaporetto stop Al Covo is excellent. Nearer to Giardini on Via Garibaldi Il Nuovo Galleon is great. Corte Sconta is also great in Castello. They can be pricey and usually need reservations, but it’s real venetian food, not tourist stuff. To save, I often go for lunch instead of dinner.

    • I had dinner at Al Covo a couple of times and I agree with you, it is a really good, but quite pricey restaurant. They prepare traditional Venetian cuisine revisited with creativity and style. Personally I loved their open raviolo with fresh local mussels, eggplant and basil. Super nice desserts, delicious traditional Venetian fried cream.
      In my opinion too the Corte Sconta is a very good restaurant, especially for seafood, always fresh. It is pretty expensive but if high price is not a problem, It’s definitely worth a visit!
      I’ve never been to Nuovo Galeon, but I will definitely go the next time I will be in Venice, thanks for the advice! Ciao

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